  {"id":1056,"date":"2020-05-18T17:54:24","date_gmt":"2020-05-18T17:54:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/?p=1056"},"modified":"2021-12-22T23:07:54","modified_gmt":"2021-12-22T23:07:54","slug":"not-your-average-table-wine","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/not-your-average-table-wine\/","title":{"rendered":"Not your average table wine"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"alignright size-large is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/files\/2020\/05\/DSC_3753-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1057\" width=\"461\" height=\"307\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/files\/2020\/05\/DSC_3753-1.jpg 1083w, https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/files\/2020\/05\/DSC_3753-1-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/files\/2020\/05\/DSC_3753-1-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 461px) 100vw, 461px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p>The sound of several tons of grapes pouring from a truck onto a crush pad is remarkably similar to that of red wine splashing into a glass.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Both sounds are familiar to Keith Kenison, \u201990, and his employees at the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.14hands.com\/\">14 Hands<\/a> winery in Prosser, Washington, where they process about 500 tons of grapes every day during harvest. Kenison is the head winemaker at the facility, which makes all of the reds for Washington\u2019s second largest winery.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Since he started shoveling grape skins out of the bottom of fermenting tanks in 1992, he\u2019s had hands-on experience at every level of <a href=\"https:\/\/www.smwe.com\/estates\/\">Ste. Michelle Wine Estates<\/a>.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cI don\u2019t have a degree in viticulture, but I\u2019ve spent many years at Ste. Michelle Wine Estates University,\u201d he joked.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>After five years as a cellar worker, he became a quality assurance technician, and then an enologist in the wine lab. He crafted whites for Columbia Crest for a few years, then 14 Hands selected him when it opened in 2005.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Now, he oversees almost two dozen employees developing everything from reserves and one-of-a-kind seasonal wines to the No. 1 selling red wine in Portland and Seattle \u2014 Hot to Trot Red Blend.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Through it all, he\u2019s stayed connected to his rural roots. Born and raised in Heppner, Oregon, Kenison studied psychology at EOSC and earned enough scholarships to graduate debt-free.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cI was the first person in my family to get a bachelor\u2019s degree,\u201d he said. \u201cI wondered if it was really worth it sometimes, but I couldn\u2019t have gotten this job without one.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>His practical, customer-first approach means that every decision, from when to pick the fruit to which barrels to bottle together, is made based on taste.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cNumbers and chemistry support our decision-making, but they aren\u2019t driving it,\u201d Kenison said.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In the wine analysis lab, technicians watch the sugar level drop, indicating yeast is growing. They also look for decreasing malic acid, the compound that gives Granny Smith Apples their tartness, as it becomes lactic acid.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-3 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><ul class=\"blocks-gallery-grid\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1083\" height=\"722\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/files\/2020\/05\/DSC_3697.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"1058\" data-full-url=\"https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/files\/2020\/05\/DSC_3697.jpg\" data-link=\"https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/?attachment_id=1058\" class=\"wp-image-1058\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/files\/2020\/05\/DSC_3697.jpg 1083w, https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/files\/2020\/05\/DSC_3697-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/files\/2020\/05\/DSC_3697-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1083px) 100vw, 1083px\" \/><figcaption class=\"blocks-gallery-item__caption\"> Grapes arrive at the winery.  <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1083\" height=\"722\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/files\/2020\/05\/DSC_3726.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"1059\" data-full-url=\"https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/files\/2020\/05\/DSC_3726.jpg\" data-link=\"https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/?attachment_id=1059\" class=\"wp-image-1059\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/files\/2020\/05\/DSC_3726.jpg 1083w, https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/files\/2020\/05\/DSC_3726-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/files\/2020\/05\/DSC_3726-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1083px) 100vw, 1083px\" \/><figcaption class=\"blocks-gallery-item__caption\"> Kenison gazes at the Horse Heaven Hills, where many 14 Hands grapes are grown.  <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1083\" height=\"722\" src=\"https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/files\/2020\/05\/DSC_3730.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"1060\" data-full-url=\"https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/files\/2020\/05\/DSC_3730.jpg\" data-link=\"https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/?attachment_id=1060\" class=\"wp-image-1060\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/files\/2020\/05\/DSC_3730.jpg 1083w, https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/files\/2020\/05\/DSC_3730-800x533.jpg 800w, https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/files\/2020\/05\/DSC_3730-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1083px) 100vw, 1083px\" \/><figcaption class=\"blocks-gallery-item__caption\"> Kenison examines spent grape skins and stems bound for animal feed. <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>14 Hands has 35 wines on the market today and produces about two million cases a year \u2014 that\u2019s about 144 million glasses of wine. Quite the expansion from its first run of three varieties and 85,000 cases.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cI didn\u2019t feel like we could maintain quality with that growth, but the fruit source was developing with and ahead of us,\u201d Kenison said.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The winery is located within sight of the Horse Heaven Hills, in the official <a href=\"https:\/\/www.yakimavalleywinecountry.com\/yakima-wine-avas.asp\">American Viticultural Area of the Yakima Valley<\/a>. With 300 days of sunshine and well-drained soil, the conditions are ideal for vineyards.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cEastern Washington is probably the perfect place to grow wine grapes,\u201d he said. \u201cThe hot, dry days and cool nights make for a good balance of sugar and acid.\u201d&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>All of the vineyards are within an hour-and-a-half of the winery, so Kenison can get the fruit into production quickly when it\u2019s at its peak.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The nearby hills were once home to wild mustangs, whose power and strength inspired the winery\u2019s name. Kenison said his favorite wines to make, the reserves, are made entirely of grapes from the Horse Heaven Hills and use only traditional winemaking techniques.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cIt\u2019s all barrels instead of steel tanks, with gravity-flow transfers instead of pumping,\u201d he said. \u201cThey\u2019re only available at the tasting room here, online and to club members.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>But he\u2019s quick to reiterate that exclusivity does not necessarily translate to quality. He calls 14 Hands \u201cwine for regular people.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cWine shouldn\u2019t be mysterious or intimidating, wine is something to enjoy,\u201d Kenison said. \u201cYou should drink what you like, if that\u2019s a red with your fish or a white with your Wednesday meatloaf, that\u2019s fine.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nonetheless, 14 Hands takes center stage each May at the Kentucky Derby as the event\u2019s official wine sponsor. Kenison has attended the 14 Hands Parade of Horses, and even met the president of Churchill Downs on his three trips to Kentucky. Although its primary market is still the Northwest, the winery has developed a pocket of loyal buyers in Louisville.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Kenison\u2019s winemaker duties extend to traveling for festivals, budgeting for equipment, and even editing the text on wine labels. In the midst of big decisions, he still prioritizes casual wine drinkers and a hands-on approach.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u201cThere are times when I\u2019m standing in the supermarket offering people a taste,\u201d he said. \u201cAnd there are times I get to participate in our grape-stomping contest. I would\u2019ve won, too, but a truck of fruit came in and I had to get back to work.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Keith Kenison, &#8217;90, got his first job at a winery shoveling grape skins out of the bottom of steel tanks. Now he oversees all of the reds as a winemaker for 14 Hands.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":380,"featured_media":1057,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[19,49],"tags":[23],"class_list":["post-1056","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-alumni-stories","category-spring-2020","tag-alumni"],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1056","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/380"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1056"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1056\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1201,"href":"https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1056\/revisions\/1201"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1057"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1056"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1056"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.eou.edu\/mountaineer-magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1056"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}